The field of RC has numerous different facets; there’s really something for everybody. One of the areas I’ve set my sights on mastering is definitely the drift segment. It basically is the opposite of everything I’ve learned when it comes to driving sliding surpasses grip, more power does not mean a quicker vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic is preferable to rubber. So when 3Racing sent over their Axial Wraith, I had to scoop one approximately see what all the hoopla was using this type of drifter.
WHO Causes It To Be: 3Racing
WHO IT’S FOR: Any level of drift enthusiast
PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD
Simply How Much: $115.00
BUILD TYPE: Kit
• AWD for convenient learning ?
• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?
• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?
• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?
• Battery positioning in front of the motor or around the rear diffuser ?
• Aluminum motor mount ?
• Threaded shocks ?Plenty of tuning adjustment ?
• Extremely affordable pric
• Front drive belt slips away from the roller bearing
This drifter has a lot going for it; well manufactured, a lot of pretty aluminum and rolls in with a very economical price. Handling is good also after you get accustomed to the kit setup, and yes it accepts a very wide variety of body styles. There’s also a huge amount of tunability for individuals who want to tinker, which means this car should grow along with you as the skills do.
The D4’s chassis can be a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. It has cutouts at the base for that front and back diffs to peek through together with a bazillion countersunk holes. The majority of these can be used for mounting such things as the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but there are actually a good number of left empty. They can be helpful to control chassis flex, although not with the stock top deck; an optional you must be bought. The layout is comparable to a normal touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system and finally the rear bulkhead/ suspension. Things are all readily available and replaceable with just a couple turns of some screws.
? Aside from a few interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is much like a touring car’s. A single A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are employed, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to raise them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The rear suspension uses vertical ball studs to take care of camber and roll whilst the front uses an intriguing, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This technique allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on lower and upper pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and enables some extreme camber settings.
? A very important factor that’s pretty amazing with drift cars is the serious quantity of steering throw they already have. Starting with the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart and as near the edges of the chassis as is possible. This creates a massive 65° angle, enough to regulate the D4 in even the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend the majority of their time sideways, I needed a good servo to keep up with the constant countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.
Whilst not needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to keep up with any steering angle changes I need it a moment’s notice.
? The D4 uses a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. A huge, 92T 48P spur is coupled to the central gear shaft, where the front and rear belts meet. Pulleys keep your front belt high higher than the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the power on the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to allow using a selection of different wheel and tire combos.
? To give the D4 a certain amount of beauty, I prefered 3racing Sakura D4 body from ABC Hobby. This is a beautiful replica on this car and included a slick group of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure how you can paint it, however i do remember a method I used quite some time back that got a bit of attention. So, I gave the RX-3 a go of pearl white in the underside, but painted the fenders black externally. After everything was dry, I shot the outer using a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I love the very last result … and yes it was easy. That’s good because I’m a very impatient painter!
ON THE TRACK
For this particular test, I had the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter upon the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I was heading there to complete a photograph shoot for one more vehicle and thought, heck, why not take it along and have some sideways action?
The steering in the D4 is quite amazing. While I mentioned earlier, the throw is really a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference from the parts. The CVD’s can change that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. Though it does look a bit funny together with the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does a fantastic job of keeping the slide controlled and transferring the proper direction. This is, to some extent, because of the awesome handling of your D4, but the speedy Futaba servo.
Drifting is not about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I am aware that sounds odd, but when you’ve mastered the wheel speed of the drifter, you can control the angle of attack and the sideways motion through any corner. I came across Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to do just that make controlled, smooth throttle adjustments to alter the angle of the D4 where and when I needed. Sliding within a little shallow? Add more throttle to find the tail end to whip out. Beginning to over cook the corner? Ease up somewhat and also the D4 would get back in line. It’s all a point of ? nesse, along with the Novak system is made for simply that. I did so have to be a little creative with the install from the system on account of only a little space in the chassis, but overall it figured out great.
After driving connected touring cars for a time, it can take a little becoming accustomed to with the knowledge that a car losing grip and sliding is the proper way throughout the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control once you have it, it’s beautiful. Getting a car and pitching it sideways by way of a sweeper, all the while keeping the nose pointed in at lower than a couple of inches in the curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled out of control thing, and the D4 can it wonderfully. The kit setup is nice, but if you feel just like you require more of something anything there’s lots of items to adjust. I actually enjoyed the vehicle using the kit setup and it also was just a point of battery power pack or two before I had been swinging the rear around the hairpins, around the carousel and backwards and forwards from the chicane. I never had a chance to strap battery on the diffuser, but that’s something I’m looking towards.
There’s little that you can do to damage a drift car they’re really not going everything fast. I did, however, come with an issue with the leading belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the top level deck. Throughout the initial run, it suddenly felt like the D4 acquired just a little drag brake. I kept along with it, seeking to overcome the matter with driving, but soon was required to RPM Traxxas Revo parts it in to actually check it out. In the build, the belt slips right into a plastic ‘tunnel’ that may be supported by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted stuff like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square about the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, once the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide off the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it will come in contact with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura a prolonged screw with a number of 1mm shims to space the bearing out a little more. Problem solved.